Gemstone Cuts

A gemstone does not shine by accident. Its beauty is engineered, coaxed out of rough crystal by the deliberate hand of a lapidary who understands how light behaves inside stone. What we casually call a “cut” actually hides two distinct ideas. 

Shape describes the outline you see from above, round, oval, square, elongated. 

Cut style is the internal architecture: the pattern, angles, and relationships of facets that control how light enters, reflects, and returns to the eye.

This distinction matters because a gemstone’s visual character is less about symmetry alone and more about performance. Lapidaries work with the stone’s natural structure, optical properties, and inclusions to optimise what gem professionals often describe as the three pillars of light performance: 

-brilliance (white light reflected back), 

-fire (the dispersion of spectral colours), and 

-scintillation (the flashes created as the stone moves). 

A masterful cut balances all three, allowing the stone to feel alive rather than merely polished.

There is also a quiet sacrifice involved. To achieve this harmony, a gemstone typically loses around half of its original rough weight during cutting. Mass is exchanged for movement, depth, and light. The result is not simply a shaped object, but a carefully tuned optical instrument. In this sense, gemstone cuts are less about decoration and more about translation: transforming raw geological material into something that can speak fluently in light.

What Are The Different Types of Gemstone Cuts?

Before diving into individual styles and histories, it helps to see the landscape at a glance. Gemstone cuts form a kind of visual language. Some prioritise sparkle, some clarity, some surface area, and others symbolism or historical character. The table below brings together the most widely used gemstone cut types, showing how each cut relates to its primary cutting style and what visual qualities it is best known for.

Rather than ranking cuts as “better” or “worse,” think of this as a map. Each cut solves a different optical problem and serves a different aesthetic intention.

The Three Fundamental Gem Cutting Styles

Almost every gemstone cut in use today can be traced back to one of three foundational cutting styles. These styles are not shapes; they are systems. Each defines how facets are organised, how light behaves inside the stone, and what visual qualities are brought forward. Understanding them is like learning the grammar behind the language of gemstone cuts.

Brilliant Cut Style

A brilliant cut is a faceting style created to maximise light return, producing intense sparkle, fire, and visual energy. It is engineered so that light entering the stone is reflected internally and returned to the viewer through the crown.

Key characteristics of brilliant cuts include:

• Triangular and kite-shaped facets radiating from the centre
  

• High levels of brilliance and scintillation
  

• Strong fire caused by light dispersion
  

• Ability to visually minimise small inclusions
  

• Greater rough material loss due to precise angle requirements
  
  

This style is most effective for gemstones with high refractive indices and is favoured when sparkle is the primary goal rather than transparency.

Step Cut Style

A step cut is a faceting style defined by long, rectangular facets arranged in parallel rows, resembling steps on a staircase. Instead of sharp flashes of light, step cuts create broader, slower-moving reflections.

Step cuts are recognised by the following features:

• Parallel, elongated facets with clean geometry
  

• Emphasis on clarity, colour, and internal structure
  

• Softer, more restrained light performance
  

• Increased visibility of inclusions and colour zoning
  

• Strong architectural and elegant visual presence
  
  

Because nothing is hidden in a step cut, this style demands high-quality rough and meticulous craftsmanship.

Mixed Cut Style

A mixed cut is a hybrid faceting approach that combines brilliant-style facets with step-style facets in a single gemstone. It is commonly used to balance sparkle with depth and material efficiency.

Typical characteristics of mixed cuts include:

• Brilliant-style facets on the crown for light return
  

• Step-style facets on the pavilion for structure and depth
  

• Reduced light leakage in elongated or fancy shapes
  

• Balanced appearance between brilliance and clarity
  

• Greater flexibility in adapting to irregular rough
  
  

Mixed cuts reflect a modern, adaptive approach to lapidary work, allowing cutters to optimize each stone individually rather than forcing it into a single stylistic framework.

With these three cutting styles in mind, we can now explore how they manifest in the most popular and recognisable gemstone cuts, from timeless classics to expressive modern forms.

The Different Types of Gemstone Cuts

Once the fundamental cutting styles are understood, individual gemstone cuts begin to reveal their true logic. Each popular cut represents a specific solution to the same underlying challenge: how to shape a stone so that light, colour, and proportion work in harmony. Some cuts prioritise brilliance, others clarity or surface presence, while some are designed to balance all three. In this section, we examine the most widely used gemstone cuts.

Round Brilliant Cut

The round brilliant cut is a circular gemstone cut mathematically designed to maximise brilliance, fire, and scintillation. Its precise symmetry and facet arrangement allow light to enter, reflect internally, and return through the crown with exceptional efficiency. This cut is the most researched and optimised in gem history, making it the reference point for light performance across all gemstones. The cost of this perfection is weight loss, as more rough material must be removed to achieve ideal proportions.

Key characteristics of the round brilliant cut:

• Circular outline with perfect radial symmetry
  

• Typically 57–58 facets
  

• Highest levels of brilliance and fire
  

• Excellent light performance in all conditions
  

• Greater rough material loss compared to many cuts
  
  

Princess Cut

The princess cut is a square or rectangular brilliant-style cut created to deliver strong sparkle in a geometric form. Developed as a modern alternative to the round brilliant, it uses sharp angles and brilliant-style faceting to produce intense scintillation. While visually bold and contemporary, its pointed corners are structurally vulnerable and require protective settings. It remains popular for its balance between brilliance, modern aesthetics, and relatively efficient use of rough.

Key characteristics of the princess cut:

• Square or slightly rectangular outline
  

• Brilliant-style faceting for strong sparkle
  

• Sharp, pointed corners
  

• Modern and angular appearance
  

• More efficient rough usage than round cuts
  
  

Cushion Cut

The cushion cut is a square or rectangular cut with rounded corners and large facets, often described as pillow-shaped. Rooted in antique cutting traditions, the cushion cut produces a softer, more romantic light than sharper brilliant cuts. Its facet structure emphasises depth and warmth rather than sharp flashes, making it particularly appealing for coloured gemstones. Modern cushion cuts vary widely, ranging from vintage-inspired to highly brilliant interpretations.

Key characteristics of the cushion cut:

• Rounded corners with a soft outline
  

• Large facets creating a gentle glow
  

• Vintage character with modern flexibility
  

• Strong colour retention
  

• Less aggressive sparkle than round or princess cuts
  
  

Emerald Cut

The emerald cut is a rectangular step cut defined by long, parallel facets and cropped corners. Originally developed for emeralds to reduce pressure during cutting, this style prioritises clarity and colour over brilliance. The broad facets act like windows into the stone, revealing inclusions and internal structure with little forgiveness. Visually, it creates a calm, reflective “hall of mirrors” effect rather than intense sparkle.

Key characteristics of the emerald cut:

• Rectangular outline with cropped corners
  

• Step-style parallel facets
  

• Emphasis on clarity and colour depth
  

• Minimal scintillation
  

• Elegant, architectural appearance
  
  

Asscher Cut

The Asscher cut is a square step cut with deeply trimmed corners, creating an octagonal appearance. Known for its strong symmetry and depth, the Asscher cut exaggerates the step-cut “hall of mirrors” effect. Its higher crown and deeper pavilion draw the eye inward, producing a dramatic sense of structure and balance. Like all step cuts, it demands high-quality material, as inclusions are easily visible.

Key characteristics of the Asscher cut:

• Square outline with octagonal geometry
  

• Deep pavilion and high crown
  

• Strong symmetry and visual depth
  

• Emphasis on clarity over sparkle
  

• Bold, architectural presence
  
  

Baguette Cut

The baguette cut is a long, narrow rectangular step cut with minimal facets. Rather than competing for attention, baguette cuts offer restraint and precision. They are most commonly used as accent stones, framing larger centre stones or adding linear contrast in jewellery design. Their simplicity makes any inclusion or colour inconsistency immediately visible.

Key characteristics of the baguette cut:

• Elongated rectangular shape
  

• Minimal step-style faceting
  

• Low brilliance and fire
  

• Clean, minimalist aesthetic
  

• Commonly used as accent stones
  
  

Oval Cut

The oval cut is an elongated mixed cut that combines brilliant-style faceting with a rounded outline. It offers much of the brilliance of a round cut while creating the illusion of greater size and length. Because of its shape, oval cuts can sometimes show a bowtie effect, which skilled cutters work to minimise through careful facet placement.

Key characteristics of the oval cut:

• Elongated, symmetrical outline
  

• Brilliant-style light performance
  

• Appears larger than its carat weight
  

• Can visually lengthen fingers
  

• May show bowtie effect if poorly cut
  
  

Pear Cut

The pear cut is a teardrop-shaped mixed cut that merges round and marquise characteristics. Its asymmetrical form creates a strong sense of direction and movement, making it especially expressive in pendants and earrings. Precision is critical, as symmetry and balance directly affect both beauty and durability.

Key characteristics of the pear cut:

• Teardrop-shaped outline
  

• Combination of brilliant and structured facets
  

• Directional, elegant appearance
  

• Requires careful symmetry
  

• Vulnerable pointed tip
  
  

Marquise Cut

The marquise cut is an elongated, boat-shaped mixed cut designed to maximise visible surface area. Also known as the navette cut, it was historically favoured for making stones appear larger than their actual weight. Its pointed ends and elongated form can create dramatic presence, though it is also prone to bowtie effects if not expertly cut.

Key characteristics of the marquise cut:

• Long, narrow outline with pointed ends
  

• Maximises face-up size
  

• Dramatic and regal appearance
  

• Requires protective settings
  

• Sensitive to cutting precision
  
  

Radiant Cut

The radiant cut is a mixed cut that combines an emerald-style outline with brilliant-style faceting. It was developed to offer the structure of step cuts with the sparkle of brilliant cuts. The result is a versatile stone that performs well in both white and coloured gemstones, delivering strong light return without sacrificing shape definition.

Key characteristics of the radiant cut:

• Rectangular or square outline
  

• Brilliant-style faceting for high sparkle
  

• Reduced light leakage
  

• Strong versatility across gem types
  

• Balanced brilliance and structure
  
  

Heart Cut

The heart cut is a symmetrical fancy cut shaped like a heart and faceted in a brilliant style. More than any other cut, it relies on precision to maintain visual balance and recognisability. When executed well, it carries strong symbolic meaning while still delivering lively light performance.

Key characteristics of the heart cut:

• Heart-shaped outline
  

• Brilliant-style faceting
  

• High demand for symmetry
  

• Strong symbolic and emotional appeal
  

• Technically challenging to execute

Rose Cut

The rose cut is an antique gemstone cut with a flat base and a domed top covered in triangular facets. Developed in the 16th century, it was designed for candlelit environments where soft reflections mattered more than brilliance. Lacking a pavilion, rose cuts do not return light with intensity, but instead produce a gentle, romantic shimmer that feels intimate and organic.

Key characteristics of the rose cut:

• Flat bottom with a faceted dome
  

• Low brilliance and minimal fire
  

• Soft, diffused surface glow
  

• Strong antique and vintage appeal
  

• Often used in thin or shallow rough
  
  

Briolette Cut

The briolette cut is a fully faceted, elongated drop-shaped gemstone with no flat table. Unlike most cuts, it is faceted entirely around its surface, allowing light to reflect from all directions. Historically popular in the Victorian era, briolettes were often suspended as pendants or earrings, where movement enhances their light play.

Key characteristics of the briolette cut:

• Teardrop or pear-like three-dimensional form
  

• Faceted over the entire surface
  

• Designed for movement rather than face-up viewing
  

• Moderate sparkle with fluid light reflection
  

• Commonly drilled or capped for suspension
  
  

Old European Cut

The Old European cut is an early round brilliant precursor developed before modern cutting standards. It features a smaller table, higher crown, and deeper pavilion than modern round brilliants, producing a softer and more dispersed light pattern. These stones reflect the craftsmanship of hand-cutting, with charm rooted in imperfection rather than precision.

Key characteristics of the Old European cut:

• Round outline with visible culet
  

• High crown and small table
  

• Softer brilliance and fire
  

• Handcrafted symmetry variations
  

• Strong historical and collectible value
  
  

Old Mine Cut

The Old Mine cut is a cushion-shaped antique cut that predates the Old European style. Recognisable by its squarish outline, high crown, and deep pavilion, it was shaped to follow the natural form of rough crystals. The light performance is warm and moody, favouring depth over sparkle.

Key characteristics of the Old Mine cut:

• Cushion-like square outline
  

• High crown with large culet
  

• Warm, candlelit glow
  

• Irregular symmetry from hand cutting
  

• Foundation of modern cushion cuts
  
  

Cabochon Cut

The cabochon cut is a non-faceted gemstone cut shaped into a smooth, polished dome with a flat base. Rather than reflecting light through facets, cabochons display colour, texture, and optical phenomena directly on the surface. This cut is essential for stones that would gain nothing from faceting, such as opaque or translucent materials.

Key characteristics of the cabochon cut:

• Smooth convex dome
  

• No facets or table
  

• Highlights colour saturation and texture
  

• Ideal for star, cat’s eye, and chatoyancy effects
  

• Commonly used for turquoise, opal, moonstone, and onyx
  
  

Portuguese Cut

The Portuguese cut is a highly complex faceted gemstone cut featuring an exceptionally large number of facets arranged in concentric rows. Designed to maximise internal reflections, this cut creates a layered, almost kaleidoscopic light effect. It requires deep, high-quality rough and precise execution, making it as demanding as it is visually striking.

Key characteristics of the Portuguese cut:

• Extremely high facet count
  

• Concentric circular facet arrangement
  

• Intense internal light play
  

• Significant weight loss during cutting
  

• Highly technical and labour-intensive

Choosing a Gemstone Cut Beyond Sparkle

A gemstone cut is never just a technical decision. It is a choice about how a stone should speak. Some cuts are engineered to dazzle immediately, scattering light in sharp flashes. Others invite a slower gaze, revealing depth, colour, texture, or history over time. From mathematically optimised brilliant cuts to antique forms shaped by candlelight, and from restrained step cuts to experimental fantasy styles, each cut reflects a different philosophy of beauty.

Understanding gemstone cuts allows you to read a stone more clearly. You begin to see why one gem feels energetic while another feels calm, why some emphasise precision and others emotion. The cut tells you how much material was sacrificed, how the cutter prioritised light versus mass, and whether the stone was shaped to follow rules or to bend them.

In the end, there is no universally “best” gemstone cut. There is only the cut that aligns with both the stone’s natural character and the way it is meant to be worn. A sculptural cut may feel at home in Rings, where structure and presence take centre stage, while softer, elongated forms often shine in Necklaces, allowing light and movement to work together. Expressive cuts can bring drama and balance to Earrings, while more restrained or tactile styles suit the intimacy of Bracelets, where the stone is experienced up close. When viewed as part of a wider Jewellery collection, gemstone cuts stop being isolated design choices and become part of a cohesive visual language, one where craftsmanship, intention, and light are brought into lasting harmony.